These are past articles which were part of the monthly newsletters.

SHOULD YOU VACCINATE FOR RABIES?
Rabies is an infrequently encountered neurologic disease of equids. While the incidence of rabies in horses is low, the disease is invariably fatal and has consider-able public health significance. It is recommended that rabies vaccine be a core vaccine for all equids.

Exposure occurs through the bite of an infected (rabid) animal, typically a wildlife source such as raccoon, fox, skunk, or bat. Bites to horses occur most often on the muzzle, face, and lower limbs. The virus migrates via nerves to the brain where it initiates rapidly progressive, invariably fatal encephalitis.

Vaccines:

Three vaccines are licensed for rabies prophylaxis in horses. All are inactivated tissue culture derived products. The vaccines are given by intramuscular injection and appear to be safe. Rabies is an excellent immunogen and these vaccines induce a strong serologic response after a single dose.

Challenge studies demonstrating efficacy are required for licensing of all rabies vaccines (including those labeled for use in equids in the USA), however published results are not available. The challenge studies are conducted by the vaccine manufacturers as outlined in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) from the United States Department of Agriculture.

Vaccination Schedules:

(Veterinarians should read the label for each specific product recommendation.)

Adult horses previously vaccinated against rabies: Annual revaccination.

Adult horses previously unvaccinated against rabies or having unknown vaccinal history: Administer a single primary dose. Revaccinate annually.

Pregnant mares, previously vaccinated against rabies: Vaccinate 4 to 6 weeks before foaling. Alternatively, veterinarians may recommend that mares be vaccinated with rabies vaccine before breeding. Duration of immunity is such that antibodies to rabies virus are maintained at sufficient levels in mares vaccinated prior to breeding as to provide passive immunity through colostrum to the foal. Administration of rabies vaccine prior to breeding of the mare reduces the number and type of vaccines given in the period prior to foaling.

Pregnant mares, previously unvaccinated or of unknown vaccinal history: Vaccinate 4 to 6 weeks before foaling.

Foals of mares vaccinated against rabies: Administer a primary series of 3 doses. The first dose of vaccine should be administered no earlier than 6 months of age. The second dose should be given 4 to 6 weeks later. The third dose should be given at 10 to 12 months of age. Revaccinate annually thereafter. This schedule avoids interference with antibody production in the foal due to presence of colostrum-derived antibodies.

Foals of unvaccinated mares or of unknown vaccinal history: Administer a primary series of 3 doses. The first dose of vaccine should be administered at 3 to 4 months of age. The second dose should be given 4 weeks later. The third dose should be given at 10 to 12 months of age. Revaccinate annually thereafter.

Horses exposed* to confirmed rabid animal:

Horse currently vaccinated against rabies with one of the USDA-approved rabies vaccines: Immediate revaccination by a licensed veterinarian and observation (as directed by public health officials) for 45 days for development of clinical signs of rabies.

Unvaccinated horse: Euthanatize immediately. If the owner is unwilling to have this done then horse should be closely monitored under veterinary supervision for 6 months. Public health officials may establish requirements and conditions for monitoring of exposed, unvaccinated animals.

*Rabies exposure and transmission occur only when the virus is introduced into bite wounds, into open cuts in skin, or onto mucous membranes from saliva or other potentially infectious material such as neural tissue.

 

WHAT YOUR HORSE WANTS IN A TRAILER

While a horse will learn to accept the trailer you provide him with, he may choose differently!

Ample room for a secure stance. If this space is too small, he’ll feel confined, and he may have trouble bracing himself so he can keep his balance during transit. Avoid trailers with a divider that goes all the way to the floor.Ventilation. A trailer is one of the dustiest environments your horse will get into. Always make sure you open vents and windows to allow plenty of circulation.Need to lower his head. Because of the extra dust floating around, be sure to leave a long enough lead to allow your horse to lower his head so he can go through the clearing process to remove the mucus that will accumulate.Light, airy interior. They don’t like going into small dark spaces. Use inside lighting if possible.No sharp edges or protrusions. Enough said.Removable partitions & bars. Welded in partitions and bars can trap your horse in an accident. Always consider the worst-case scenario.

THE COLOR OF SALT
White salt blocks contain only sodium chloride. These blocks are sufficient for horses fed commercial grain mixes, which are generally formulated to provide all the necessary vitamins and minerals. You can also offer white salt blocks to horses on a grass diet and provide minerals and other nutrients with a carefully chosen supplement. As always, check with your veterinarian if you have any questions about your horse’s rations.

Red salt blocks, on the other hand, are “mineralized,” meaning that in addition to sodium chloride, they contain small amounts of trace minerals such as iron, copper, iodine, zinc and manganese. These are a good choice for horses on grass or forage-only diets that may be lacking in certain minerals. A horse has a natural appetite for salt, so he will consume enough of the minerals on his own. If, however, a horse develops a salt fixation, he may consume excess minerals.

TRAILERING WITH EASE
A successful trailer journey involves more than just getting to your destination on time. How you drive can mean the difference between a horse who arrive calm and ready to ride or one that is dehydrated, tense, and exhausted. To maximize your passenger’s safety & comfort while traveling, consider three guidelines as you drive:

Maintain a reasonable & consistent speed through turns to help your horse keep his balance. This means slowing before a turn and accelerating after it. Too-quick turns can pull a horse off balance, causing him to fall sideways.

Decelerate slowly. Start a quarter mile before you need to stop. Braking suddenly causes a horse to pitch forward in the trailer. In contrast, the way you accelerate isn’t as great a concern because it’s virtually impossible for a vehicle to speed up fast enough to pull a horse off his feet.

Aim for a consistent speed on hills. To your horse, going uphill feels like the trailer is accelerating; going downhill feels like it’s slowing. Don’t make it more difficult for him to adjust to those forces by changing speed on a slope unless it’s necessary for safety.

To test your trailer driving skills, put an almost full cup of water on the dashboard or armrest of your tow vehicle or place a nearly full bucket of water in the empty trailer and take a drive. A trip without spills indicates trailer towing proficiency.

MOUNTING BLOCKS

Here’s an interesting article I found in EQUUS #361. So, for those who use a mounting block (for whatever reason), hold your head high! Take no shame in using them, as all this time you have been doing your horse a huge favor!

The University of Michigan recently completed a study on the biomechanics of mounting horses. They concluded that if you want to spare your horse’s back and encourage his muscles to develop symmetrically, avoid mounting from the ground. Either have someone give you a leg-up or use a mounting block. You want to be able to get in the saddle without using the stirrup.

They report that when mounting from the ground, pressure on the right side of the withers pulls the horse’s entire body to the left, and the horse must push asymmetrically against the ground to keep his balance. You will sometimes see a horse stagger to the left as a rider climbs aboard, and then there is the rider’s habitual shift to the right to re-center the saddle, which creates another asymmetrical force on the horse’s back.

Although this study was used with a dressage saddle, results should be similar with any saddle. Tightening the girth may prevent a saddle from slipping but will not reduce the force on the right side of the withers.

EIA & COGGINS TESTING
Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA) is also known as Swamp Fever and Equine AIDS. It is caused by an infection from a lentivirus, the same family of virus that causes AIDS in people. These are not the same virus however. People cannot get AIDS from the horse virus, and horses cannot get EIA from the human virus. Just 1 cc of blood from an acutely infected horse can pass the virus onto one million other horses.

When most people hear the word virus, they think of upper respiratory symptoms. This virus is different. It hides inside a type of white blood cell (macrophages) that carries throughout the horse's body. Highest concentrates are found in the lymph nodes, liver, spleen, kidney and bone marrow, but it can go to any organ, including the brain.

We all know flies are the culprit. Symptoms usually appear from one to three weeks after being infected. Some horses have just a short period of fever (24 hours) and be lethargic, maybe off feed; while others will die from in in as little as two weeks. Some horses may show no signs at all until put through times of stress (another infection, traveling, hard exercise, etc.) when the immune system is low which will activate the virus.

Symptoms are only evident when the virus is active. Fever is the first sign, and easily missed. The next symptom is anemia, which occurs because chemical-signaling molecules become attached to the red blood cells and trigger the immune cells to eat the cells. This causes weakness, depression, poor oxygen delivery, and possible organ damage.

As the disease progresses, blood clotting occurs. The liver and other organs get damaged, and the horse steadily looses weight while showing swelling of the belly and legs.

Why is EIA so serious?

Because there is no cure for it.

There is no treatment to get your horse better.

Biting flies will spread the virus to other horses.

Horses that test positive for EIA must be destroyed or quarantined for life.

And, an infected horse may or may not show signs of the disease.

With no treatment available, although researchers are trying to develop a vaccine, protecting your horse boils down to minimizing his chances of exposure.

If you board your horse, make sure the facility requires a negative Coggins test from all the other boarders.

Insist on a negative Coggins test when purchasing new horses.

Choose shows and rides that require participants to have a neg. Coggins.

Insist on a neg. Coggins from a stallion that may breed your mare.

If you take your horse where he may possibly be around other horses that may not be tested, use an effective fly repellant!

In 2004 there were 333 positive EIA horses in the USA. Twelve states had four or more positives. Twelve additional states had from 1 to 3 horses test positive. Here are some of the recent numbers: Texas had 92 positives, Oklahoma had 98 positives, Missouri had 15, Iowa had 5, Michigan had 16... And a Coggins Test is the only way to confirm or deny a diagnosis.

TOOTH TROUBLES
All horses benefit from regular dental care. Unlike a person's teeth which one grown remain the same size, a horse's tooth is much different. The entire tooth a horse uses throughout his life is stored inside his jaw. As he ages, the tooth will grind down, and the tooth will continue to erupt (grown out of the jaw) until a nub is left in the aged horse. The 24 molars a horse has keeps pace with the rate of abrasion they are subject to as a result of chewing.

Because a horse's lower jaw is smaller than the upper jaw, the teeth do not wear flat. Hooks and points develop and can lacerate your horse's cheek and gums and make chewing very painful.

This erratic wear must be filed down in order for the horse to stay in good health. Most vets recommend adult horses to get yearly floating if needed. Horses under 5 years of age require more work as their teeth are softer and more prone to developing points, and the milk teeth sometimes require more work as the adult teeth come in. A horse's teeth are fully formed at 5.

Under normal circumstances, a horse's molars should last him a lifetime. But horses 20 years and older often develop age-related problems such as:

Lost & broken cheek teeth. This will result in severe problems in the near future, and eating will become impossible.

Shear mouth. A chipped tooth or other dental disruption early in a horse's life leads to a one-sided chewing pattern that by old age leaves the teeth sharply pointed.

Gingivitis, a painful, chronic inflammation of the gums.

Infection. Food that lodges in the pockets that form between the gums and teeth can become a source of infection, which may eventually travel into the sinuses or surrounding bone.

Persistent weight loss in older horses can often be traced to dental problems. Even if a tooth needs to be extracted, a horse can live happily sans a tooth, but he may require a special diet.

Although older horses may be more susceptible to tooth troubles, any horse can have problems, and signs may not always be evident. He may be experiencing tooth pain when he:

Drops or dribbles grain when feeding.

Develops a peculiar eating habit or head posture. A bad tooth or wound inside the mouth may make normal head posture painful.

Continues to make chewing motions even when no food is available. He may be trying to dislodge an object caught between his teeth or stuck in the gum.

Has a foul odor coming from his mouth or nose. The horse's vegetarian diet usually keeps his breath smelling sweet. An offensive odor indicates decay from a rotting tooth, soft tissue infection, wound, or tumor.

Tosses his head or resists the bit. Teeth in need of floating may have trouble carrying a bit comfortably.

Drools or smacks his lips. Eating coarse roughage may have made his mouth sore. He may have an infection. If he's a young horse, he may just be shedding his baby teeth.

If you suspect any oral pain in your horse, seek professional help and treatment. (For the horse, silly!)

 

BLANKETING

Here are a few things to consider regarding blanketing your horses:
While running without a blanket is best, horses that are young, old, cold, or clipped need blankets.
Be sure not to use too much blanket for the weather so the horse doesn’t overheat.
Look for waterproof and breathable blankets, especially for turnout.
Measure your horse for the right size to avoid rubs and gaps.
A good strap goes a long way toward keeping the blanket in place.

Materials

Cotton is the most secure material, it’s breathable and easy to wash. Some fabrics can be a bit stiff. Polycotton is a little softer than pure cotton.
Fleece is warm and lightweight, breathable and easy to wash. Fleece is soft and cuddly, but picks up lots of debris.
Nylon or Polyester are the warmest but also the heaviest. They are the most difficult to wash and keep clean. Nylon is usually the under-layer on a blanket, as it’s not as durable to be an outer layer. Nylon also isn’t breathable.
Textilene/PVC is a tough mesh-like fabric that is more resistant to tears and snags. It tends to be a bit stiff, but you can clean it with a hose and brush.
Gore-Tex and Sympatex are water-proof, windproof, highly breathable and expensive.
Lycra is great for preventing rubs and keeping the coat slick. However, Lycra needs to stretch to work, so don’t go overboard on size.
Cordura is a tough, durable material that is easy to clean and is water-resistant.
Wool is found in coolers and exercise sheets and occasionally in blanket lining, but it’s expensive compared to more modern synthetic options

 

TWENTY QUESTIONS

These are twenty questions that will come in handy when purchasing a horse. The more you know, the better off your relationship with a new horse will begin.

“Does the horse have a nickname?” Many horses do know their name. We must respect that they have a past as well as a future!

“Is there a feeding schedule or regimen?” Is this horse an easy-keeper or a hard-keeper? Has it been feed grain? Supplements? Hay? Grass?

“What is this horse’s past living environment?” Has your new mount been babied from the weather? Has it been protected from other herd mates that may have bullied him/her? Always remember that it is a good idea to quarantine new horses from your home herd. They should be given several days to become accustom to their new surroundings and new herd mates before being turned out with them.

“Describe the horses’ personality and hierarchy in the herd.” This will play a big part in introducing this new horse to your own herd.

“What vaccinations and worming has the horse received?” What was administered and when? Are any boosters due?

“Is there or have there been any health issues?” Are there past illnesses or injuries you should be aware of?

“Trailering?” How does the horse load, ride in a trailer, and what type of trailer is the horse used to?

“Ground manners?” A tough questions to ask… Has the horse been clipped? Can you fiddle with the ears, mouth, face with no trouble? Will the horse wear a blanket? Will he/she stand quietly?

“Is he/she easy to catch?” You have to be able to catch him/her before you turn him/her out with the others!

“How is the horse with having the feet handled or being shod?” This is nice to know ahead of time.

“What sort of training has the horse had?” Let’s you know what to expect, or not to expect.

“Is this horse “cinchy”?” Some horses are “cold-backed” and must go through a time of warm-up before being mounted.

“What sort of riding have you done with this horse?”

“What kind of bit and bridle have you been using on this horse?” Certain horses do better with one kind or another… it’s best to find out what has and has not worked for this particular horse.

“How does this horse handle new situations?” It’s best not to be too surprised by a horse that will shy or refuse obstacles.

“Can he/she be ridden alone?” Some horses are terrified of being alone, and need the comfort of others.

“Has she ever been bred?”

“What do you know about the dam and sire?” Size, temperaments, and personalities are passed down.

“Does he/she pull back when tied or have other idiosyncrasies?” These are very important to know to keeping yourself and others safe.

“Has this horse been around other livestock? Kids? Traffic? Dogs? Commotion?”

 

WHEN TO CALL FOR HELP Most wounds can be tended to by an informed horse owners with a well stocked first aid kit. However, a few unmistakable signs indicate the need for veterinarian care: A wound over a joint, especially if it is leaking clear fluid. If the joint capsule is breached, the lubricating synovial fluid can escape. Such wounds can destroy a joint. Spurting blood might be from an artery. Use a clean cloth to apply pressure to the area until help arrives. A wound that is accompanied by lameness is likely the result of a more serious trauma that calls for veterinary investigation.

BLOWING UP!
Most of us have heard that a horse will “blow up” it’s belly to prevent the girth from getting tightened. Sounds about right, but it is a myth. A horse cannot fill his lungs up with air. So why does that once tight girth suddenly loosen? The horse had most likely tensed his abdominal muscles in anticipation of cinch tightening, which he might find uncomfortable for any number of reasons. The tight muscles increase the diameter of the horse’s torso slightly, making the saddle feel secure until he relaxes.

Dealing with a horse who puffs up is easy. Simply tighten the cinch or girth incrementally, taking breaks to perform other tasks, such as the picking out of the hooves. When it’s done slowly, the securing of the cinch is not objectionable to most horses.

Once you’re in the saddle, it’s wise to check your cinch one last time: The weight of a rider can push a saddle down enough to loosen the cinch substantially!

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FIRST AID KITS
Every good horseman should have a first aid kit for the horse on hand at all times. We all know that when you least expect it, stuff happens! A kit should be in the barn or tack room, as well as in the horse trailer, and should be accessible. The last thing you need when your horse is injured, is to be frantically looking around for the first aid kit that you know is around somewhere!!!

First aid kits can be purchased pre-assembled at a tack or feed store, but one can be easily put together on your own.
If you opt for making your own, you will need the following:

*Antibiotic ointment or betadine for protecting against infection on minor wounds.

*Antiseptic cleanser such as betadine scrub.

*Used/cleaned ice cream pail for holding Items and lid to seal out contaminants.

*Leg wraps or vet tape is very handy to keep around at all times.

*Diaposable diapers are very absorbent and thick, and great for applying pressure against deep wounds.

*Gauze pads are great for a variety of wounds.

*Knives are a must to have around at all times with horses. You never know when a knife may be just the emergency tool you need!

*Thermometers are good to have around. A veterinary or human rectal one will do for being able to tell if your horse is under the weather, and
the vet always like to know this if you have to call him.

*K-Y Jelly is usefull for lubricating the thermometer. (Petroleum jelly can irritate the sensitive lining of the rectum.)

*Rubbing alcohol is good for disinfecting things.

*Scissors and tweezers are useful and handy items to include in you kit.

Many of the items you find in a horse’s first aid kit will for humans too!

Thanks to Tyler Curfman for this report and the information he shared with members at the last meeting!